How to Choose the Correct Chainsaw Chain

2. Understanding & Measuring Chain Pitch

The pitch of a chainsaw chain is the distance between its rivets, expressed in inches. Rivets are not equally spaced however, so precise measurement is calculated from one rivet to the next but one rivet and halving that number. The most common chainsaw chain pitches are:

•    1/4" - Used on smaller pruning saws and specialist equipment.

•    3/8" Low Profile - Commonly fitted to smaller chainsaws, electric chainsaws and many domestic models.

•    .325" - Used on a wide range of electric, small and medium sized professional chainsaws.

•    3/8" Standard - Common on larger professional chainsaws.

•    .404" - Typically used on more powerful, heavy duty chainsaws.

Although 3/8" Low Profile and 3/8" Standard chains seem to have the same pitch, they have different chain profiles and are designed for different cutting systems and are not interchangeable.

Why does the pitch matter?

The chain pitch must be the same as the drive sprocket inside the saw and the nose sprocket, where fitted, on the guide bar. Using an incorrect pitch will prevent the chain from running properly and may damage the cutting equipment.

3. Understanding & Measuring Chain Gauge

Gauge refers to the thickness of the chain's drive links, the parts that run inside the groove of the guide bar. The most common chainsaw chain gauges are:

•    .043" (1.1mm) - Used on smaller, lightweight or battery powered chainsaws.

•    .050" (1.3mm) - The most common size for light to medium duty saws.

•    .058" (1.5mm) - Common on larger sized and professional grade saws.

•    .063" (1.6mm) - Also common on larger sized and professional grade saws as well as heavy duty saws with longer guide bars.

•    .080" (2mm) - Extra heavy duty size for harvesting machinery, it's not used on standard handheld chainsaws.

The smaller .043" (1.1mm) and .050" (1.3mm) gauges are often used in narrow-kerf cutting systems, which remove less wood during cutting. This reduces cutting resistance, allowing faster, more efficient cutting while placing less strain on the engine or motor. This is particularly beneficial for smaller petrol and battery powered chainsaws, where it can also help improve fuel efficiency and battery runtime. Wider kerf cutting systems generally remove more wood and require greater power and are used in heavier duty applications.

Why does the gauge matter?

The gauge of your replacement chain must match the groove width of your guide bar. For example, a .050" (1.3mm) chain is designed for a .050" guide bar groove. A thicker chain will not fit into the groove, while a thinner chain will fit, it will have excessive sideways movement leading to excessive vibration, poor cutting, rapid wear on the chain and bar damage as well as lubrication issues.

Can you change to a different pitch and/or gauge on your chainsaw?

You can change to different sizes if there is a drive sprocket, worm drive (if needed) and guide bar available for your saw in the size you want. Please refer to your chainsaw dealer for more advice about this. Remember that the pitch and gauge of the bar and chain on your saw must always match.

4. Why the Number of Drive Links Matters

The number of drive links determines the length of the chain loop and chainsaw chains are "measured" this way. It is essential to get exactly the right number of drive links as just 1 drive link too many or too few will mean that the chain will not fit onto your saw. Drive links are the pointed or v-shaped parts beneath the rivets that fit into the groove of the guide bar, some have cutting teeth above and some don't but they are all drive links so must be counted.

To count them accurately, it is easiest to remove the chain from the saw following the manufacturer's safety instructions and count every drive link around the entire loop. Alternatively you could count the links with rivets like on a bicycle chain as that will give you the same result, just do not count the cutting teeth.

Why isn't the guide bar length enough?

Two different chainsaws with the same guide bar length can require different numbers of drive links because of differences in the guide bar, sprocket arrangement and chainsaw design. This is still the case even when the chain's pitch and gauge are identical. Choosing a replacement chain based only on the bar length can result in ordering the wrong product. In order to get the right chain, you need to know:

•   The chain pitch

•   The chain gauge

•   The number of drive links

You should also check that the type of the replacement chain is suitable for your chainsaw and intended use which we will look at next.

5. Choosing the Right Type of Chainsaw Chain

Once you know the correct size, you can consider which chain type best suits your cutting requirements. There are several different options available.

Full Chisel Chains

Full chisel chains have square cornered cutters designed for fast, aggressive cutting, particularly in clean timber. They are popular with professional tree surgeons and forestry workers who want high cutting performance.

Their sharp cutter corners can lose their edge more quickly though when cutting dirty or abrasive timber. All chains should be sharpened as they are designed for that, but full chisel chains aren't quite as easy to sharpen as semi chisel ones. Full chisel chains will need sharpening more frequently as they will go blunt quicker so are more suited for people who like to sharpen their chains.

Semi Chisel Chains

Semi chisel chains have rounded cutter corners, making them more forgiving when working in less than ideal conditions. They generally retain their cutting edge better in dirty or abrasive wood. They are a popular choice for general purpose cutting as well as firewood preparation and many professional applications.

Semi chisel chains are easier to sharpen due to their rounded shape for those who like to sharpen their chains. They are also ideal for people who don't sharpen their chains as they will stay sharper for a bit longer than full chisel chains.

There are also variations of the semi chisel cutter design, including Chamfer Chisel, which has a small bevelled corner rather than a rounded one for some extra durability and Micro Chisel, which has a smaller, tighter radius for a slightly more aggressive cut while retaining many of the benefits of semi chisel chains.

Full Skip Sequence Chains

Chain sequence refers to how the cutting teeth are spaced along the chain. Most chainsaw chains use a standard sequence with cutters positioned on every other drive link for smooth, efficient cutting. Full Skip Sequence chains however have fewer cutters with an additional drive link between them to improve chip clearance during cutting and help prevent the saw from bogging down. 

They are popular for professional forestry applications, particularly when using longer guide bars where effective chip clearance and reduced load on the saw are important. However, they do give a rougher cut with an increased risk of vibration and kickback. There are also Semi Skip Sequence chains which combine standard and skip spacing to offer a compromise between the two.

Chipper Chains

Micro Bit chipper chains feature distinctive chipper style cutters with fully rounded working corners and side plates, designed to provide excellent cutting performance, durability and easier sharpening. Their robust cutter design is particularly suited to cutting large, dirty timber and dense hardwoods, where maintaining a sharp cutting edge can be challenging.

Chipper chains are often used in heavy duty professional forestry applications, particularly with powerful chainsaws and longer guide bars.

Chain Features

Many modern chainsaw chains incorporate special features designed to improve cutting performance, safety, durability and ease of maintenance. The most common features found on Oregon chains include:

•   Low Kickback - Specially designed  features to help reduce the risk and severity of kickback. They are particularly common on chains for smaller chainsaws and domestic use, although they are also available on some professional chains. The latest 73TXL and 75TXL chains provide  faster, smoother cutting than previous chains but with innovative bumper drive links that reduce the risk of kickback and don't compromise the fast, efficient cutting performance expected by professionals.

However, low kickback designs do not eliminate the risk of kickback completely, so correct chainsaw handling, maintenance and appropriate protective equipment remain essential.

•   Vibe-Ban™ - Technology specially designed to help absorb vibration during cutting, reducing the effect by 25% or more. This improves user comfort and helps reduce fatigue during prolonged use.

•   LubriTec™ - An oiling system using specially designed chain and guide bar components to help distribute and retain the oil where it's needed most. This reduces friction and wear, helping extend the working life of both the chain and guide bar.

•   Filing Indicators - Many Oregon chains feature indicators and witness marks on the chain cutters and depth gauges to indicate the recommended sharpening angles and help identify when the cutters have reached their wear limit. Some chains also feature a distinctive gold coloured link, making it easier to identify where sharpening started and avoid missing or repeatedly filing cutters.

•   Blued Cutters - A special heat treatment process that gives them their distinctive blue appearance and provides superior resistance to corrosion and environmental wear.